Every year…these things crack me up. People seem to dig up the most awful pics and they continue to get worse each time. Enjoy!
Building your own cornhole board is easy and can be completed in as little as an afternoon.
- 2×4 1/2-inch plywood (2)
- 2x4x8 planks (4)
- Wood Clamps
- 3/4 inch wood screws
- Circular Saw/Table Saw
- Jig Saw/Router (to drill holes) – For mine I actually used a dremel tool with a router attachment.
- Drill and 5/8 drill bit
- 5/8 inch lag bolts, 4 inches long (4)
- 5/8 washers (12)
- 5/8 lock nut (4)
- Wood putty
- Primer (1qt) – have them tint slightly if using dark paint. I used Glidden Gripper.
- Exterior, semi-gloss, Paint
- Set of 8 cornhole bags, plastic filled. Purchased mine from Amazon.
- 4 pieces, 48 inches long, from 2 of the 2x4x8 planks
- 4 pieces, 21 inches long, from 1 of the 2x4x8 planks
- 4 pieces, 13 inches long, from the last of the 2x4x8 planks
- Measure a center point on the 2×4 plywood piece by measuring 12 inches out from the side and 9 inches down from the top of one of the pieces
- Set your compass to a radius of 3 inches (6 inch diameter) and using the center point you measured in step one, draw a circle
- Drill a pilot hole towards the inside line of the circle you just drew.
- Using your jig saw, cut out the circle using the line you drew in step 2 as your guide.
- Repeat on the second 2×4 piece of plywood. The top of your boards are complete.
- Clamp your 48 inch pieces of 2×4 along the long ends of the board top. Be sure to align the edges. Screw down using 5 wood screws per 2×4
- Repeat on both long edges on both boards but before you screw them down, be sure the 21 inch 2×4 boards fit in the ends of the short ends of your cornhole boards
- Clamp your 21 inch pieces of 2×4 along the short ends of the board top. Screw down using 5 wood screws per 2×4. You now have two finished cornhole board tops
- For the legs, you’ll need the 13 inch pieces of 2×4′s you cut previously.
- Measure 1 3/4 inches from the edge of each of your 2×4 pieces as well as 1 3/4 from the side. March the center point. This is where you’ll drill and insert the lag bolts
- Flip over your cornhold board top
- Stand each 2×4 leg so it is perpendicular in the top corners (end where the hole is
- Secure each leg to the top using a wood clamp
- Using the center point you marked earlier, drill from the inside out using the 5/8 drill bit. Make sure the drill bit goes through both 2×4′s. Repeat on the other side and again on the other board
- Starting from the outside, insert your lag bolt and 1 washer. Push all the way through
- Add another washer to your lag bolt and then push the leg over the lag bolt.
- Again, add a washer and the lock nut and secure. Repeat 4 times.
- Flip your board over so it is right side up. Place it on top of the other board so we can cut the legs to the desired angle and height
- You’ll need to ensure the legs are extended and able to hang over the side of the other board. Using a paint can and anything else, you’ll need to prop up the end of the board so from the bottom to the top of the board measures 12 inches. Scribe this line which you’ll later cut off with a circular saw. Repeat on the other leg and then repeat the process on the other board
- Remove the hardware and remove the legs
- Using your circular saw, cut along the line you just traced in step 19 which will give you the angle you’ll need to keep the boards 12 inches off the ground.
- Before attach the legs, we have to trim a little in order to make them fold easily.
- At the end of the 2×4, where the lag bolt goes through, trace and cut 45 degree angles so a “V” is formed at the top of the leg. Does not need to be exact so long as the point where the leg meets the ends when extended, is flush.
- Seal and finish the boards as you wish. Will be best to apply a coat of primer before painting.
- Add handles if you wish for easy transporting
My beloved Seminoles recently unveiled a new logo. Unlike most, I don’t mind the new logo. It’s not that I’m not into the tradition and history of the past…I just feel that we needed to evolve. It’s not only about the logo, it’s about consistency. FSU is known for having a multitude of logos; A Spear, 3 or 4 variations of our wordmark, Osceola on top of Renegade, and a few others. The primary logo has and will always be the Seminole Head.
Too often, do I see too many variations of our famous logo. Nike claims the old logo was difficult to reproduce across various mediums. I get it. Look at the logo on the 50 yard line. The logo has to be 40 feet in size, but the best they could do with the feather is using “State” instead of “Florida State”. Look at Seminoles T-shirts and Hats. There are at least 15 different shades of Garnet and Gold…some of which are more red and yellow. What Nike and the University has done is a great thing. The new logo may vary quite a bit from the old logo, but it looks sharp on the new uniforms.
Yes, I get it…the original logo was in fact a profile of the famed music professor Tommie Wright(below). Professor Wright is most famously known as the composer of the famed Florida State University Fight Song.
Teaching her Phillips vs Flat head. In case you were wondering, that’s a #2 Phillips she has in her hand.
My little girl is growing up too quickly
Words to live by (at Build-A-Bear Workshop)
Sing it Piano Man! (at Jacksonville Veterans Memorial Arena)
Enjoying the beautiful weather for a while. (at St. Johns Town Center)
The two loves of my life!